söndag 29 april 2012

The Jacket is Done

The jacket is halfway done and now it’s time to finish it up. 

Last time I put together the front and the back pieces and the cinch.

Now it’s time to close the side seams.

With the sides closed I do a single stitch. 

I have cut out my arms in two pieces for each arm, so I start with putting them together, the last 12cm I leave open so that I can do a slit. 

With the arms done I just have to attach them to the jacket.

Attaching the waistband with a stitch and turn

A thing that I've realized from the jackets I've done before was that I really missed a hanger. So I add one that I lock under the collar.

The collar on it's way.

With the cuff I do exactly ass the waistband, a stitch and turn. 

Now the jacket is almost done, it only needs a few more details.

A stitch to strengthen the stretch effect.

And here I've added the last details, the buttons and rivets.

As promised before I will explain the stretch effect and how it works.  

On the picture above the jacket is resting nicely on the body, and on the picture below you can se how the fabric grows when getting distressed. And this might come in handy when you do some work ore eat a whole cow or something.

More fitting picture will come up on the blog later on. And also a BIB project that I've already started on.

And if you wane to read more about the making of a jacket check out my girlfriend's BlueThimble blog, she's in the making of a really nice denim jacket with leather sleeves.

lördag 28 april 2012

Cone Denim Jacket

Sorry for the delay, it’s been a really uptight week. 

Anyway, if you have followed me from the beginning, ore read all the blog post’s you might have seen the first thing that I’ve ever MADE, it was a jacket quit similar to this one. The old jacket is a little boxier so that I can wear a lot of clothes underneath to suit the cold Swedish autumn (which we kind’ a have 80% of the year), but since it starting to get a little warmer for once I wane to have a slim fit jacket, to show of all my mussels ;). So I took the old pattern, and redraw it… a lot.

And here’s the process.
The pattern work, I realized that the pattern pictures are more visible in black and white. 

All the stripes on the pattern is for an old method, that goes way back to the nineteenth century, of making the jacket more stretchy and flexible. I'll show you what I mean when it's finished. It’s a lot of calculation behind it, you need to calculate how much of the fabric that will disappear in the folding, and also how much it will grow. Right now it look’s kind’ a big. 

But here you can see how the jacket will look like once folded.
When the pattern is done I trace it over to a harder paper and add the seam allowance. 

And finally it’s time to cut out the pieces from the fabric. I use the latest fabric that I bought from Taylortailor a 13,5 oz Cone denim whit the redline selvage. So the jacket will be quite thick. The first thing that I do when all the pieces are cut out is to iron the pocket and the stretchy and flexible folding.

Then I start with the back piece and put the mid part and the side parts together, attaching the yoke. And for the inside of the yoke I use a different fabric, which you might have seen before. 

Now over to the pocket, I’m starting to get a hang of the rounded pockets now, but I’m still not quit there, but almost. 

After the pocket I attaché the front yoke and do the plackets, on the top of the plackets I do a stich and turn to get some nice edges. Finishing with stich on the plackets.

The stitch and turn.


Then I put the front pieces and the back piece together. And before closing the sides I attach the cinch that will go from side to side. 

That's it for today, next time I will finalize the jacket.